Candice LandauLast Updated on October 14, 2024 by Candice Landau
When I learned to dive in July 2016 I had a well-paid job. A few months later and I was out of work. It was terrible timing as I’d just learned to dive and was “hooked,” and, as most seasoned divers know and will tell you, the way to dive more is to buy your own gear and dive local (you CAN dive local anywhere, you just need to find the community to do it with).
So, the question became, what do I prioritize? And how much does everything cost? Though renting dive gear is possible when you start out, it does get expensive fairly quickly, especially if you want to dive often, and especially if you’ve just lost your job! The best thing to do is to buy gear and rent what you haven’t yet bought. This decreases the rental price and helps you slowly get a complete kit of scuba gear.
Once you’re kitted out, the only real cost for local diving will be air fills, getting to the dive site and any dive site entry fees (if they exist).
My go-to spots when I was learning were Woahink Lake and the Florence North Jetty. Both within just over an hour’s reach of Eugene, OR.
A Note on Costs: you can go high and you can go low, it all depends on what you want and the type of diving you intend to do.
Here’s an estimate on what gear will cost you. If you’d prefer you can skip to the relevant section.
>> Related Reading: Cold Water Dive Gear: A Shopping List for New Divers [INFOGRAPHIC]
1. Dive/Snorkel Gear Essentials
You usually buy these for your open water course and many dive shops will “package them” which essentially means you get a discount. I recommend buying these from a dive shop and NOT online as you need to try on masks for fit as well as fins. The quality of dive shop gear is also far superior to no-name or big box store brand snorkeling gear. No comparison!
Mask: A mask can run you anywhere from $40 to $200. There are plenty of good masks for about $70. My favorite brands for dive masks include Atomic, Tusa, Gull, Beauchat, Scubapro, Aqualung and Hollis.
I suggest a low-volume mask so it’s easier to clear. I also love the single pane masks with a darker skirt. The black skirts are often a lot softer than the transparent ones. No idea why. Atomic makes my favorite of all time.
Fins: Like masks, fins can run you anywhere from $100 through $300. If you become an active diver, I’m sure you’ll eventually own more than one set of fins. They all have different advantages/disadvantages. You’ll also have different fins depending on whether you dive a wetsuit or drysuit, or if you intend to do tropical-only diving and need to focus on the lightest gear.
My favorite fins for drysuit diving are my OMS Slipstreams and my Scubapro Jet fins. Deep Six also make some nice jet fins known as the Eddy fin. I find them a bit more buoyant than the first two I mentioned. I know a lot of people who love the Dive Rite XT fins as well. All of these fins are great for frogkick. If you flutter kick, you might want something different. The Scubapro Seawing Supernova fin is a favorite for many divers.
>> Related Reading: Gear Review: OMS Slipstream Fin
For tropical diving I like the Apeks RK3 fins and the Scubapro Go Travel fins. There are loads of finds on the market. Do your own research depending on the type of diving you want to do. Pay attention to heel straps though. The buckle straps are a bit annoying. Spring straps or bungee straps make the fin much easier to don and doff.
Snorkel: Snorkels usually cost $20 to $70. It just depends on the type of snorkel you want. Dry snorkels will be a little easier to clear but cost you more. I’ve been just fine with my regular TUSA Hyperdry snorkel for ages, though I know TUSA makes a dry version of it too.
Wetsuit Boots: These can cost you anywhere from $30 to $130. For a good, solid mid range set I’d expect to pay about $40 or $50. If you want thicker soles you might pay more. My Seac wetsuit boots are a favorite because they have a tough zipper and a special feature on the back which stops fins from easily coming off. They’re also thick and warm so I know I won’t stand on anything sharp and have it poke through. My first wetsuit boots, which also stood the test of time were thinner and worked just fine for many years.
SMB (Surface Marker Buoy): These cost from $30 to $170. I recommend buying one right from the start, even if your dive shop doesn’t make you. You should ALWAYS be diving with one of these, unless of course you’re cave diving.
Though a simple $40 SMB will do you fine, a really nice one can definitely get expensive. You can of course upgrade later. My favorite of all time is this one from Halcyon (there’s a 6ft tall version too, which I have as my backup).
One other thing you might want to buy early, though you may not be taught to use in your open water checkout dives, is a spool. this will pair with the SMB so that you can deploy it from depth and have it run to the surface, alerting anyone above that there’s a diver below. Great for areas with boat traffic, or to have the boat keep an eye on where you’re drifting as you make your safety stop. A simple spool will do. Here are some of my favorites: Halcyon’s Defender Spool (you can’t get your finger stuck in the hole which is a clever feature), any of Dive Rite’s spools. Make sure the spool is long enough for the dives you’re doing and long enough that you can also cut some off when you first buy it—that’s what most of us do as there’s usually too much line on them which makes it easier for the line to pop off.
2. Exposure Protection
Wetsuit: For big-ticket items like wetsuits, drysuits, and dive computers, prices can vary. They range from about $150 – $800. Thinner wetsuits will usually be more affordable. Depending on the water temperatures, you’ll either get a 3mm, a 5mm, or a 7mm. Talk to your local dive shop and get their help figuring out which one is appropriate. Personally, I love a wetsuit with a pocket (or two).
There are also alternatives to wetsuits if you’re not a neoprene fan. I find Sharkskin far more comfortable for warmer waters (the equivalent of a 3mm wetsuit) but a little too chilly for waters that normally require a 5mm wetsuit. They’re easier to put on than a traditional neoprene wetsuit, more comfortable, and dry faster. A full sharkskin kit will cost you about $500. I’ve used mine in Chuuk Lagoon, in the Red Sea, and in the Florida Keys. The only drawback is they can catch on things, or tear more easily than a wetsuit. For these suits to work effectively, they need to be tight. I was surprised how much I had to size down to get the right size. Sharkskin has both one and two piece sets. I have both.
Drysuit: If you’re diving colder local waters, this might be your most costly purchase. It is, however, the purchase that will allow you to get out there and dive and the one that many dive shops won’t rent. It was one of my first purchases for this very reason.
You can get off-the-rack drysuits or made-to-measure drysuits. Off the rack are usually a little more affordable. Drysuits range from $900 to $4,000. My first drysuit was a new, off-the-rack BARE XCS2. It cost me $1,900. I now dive a BARE Guardian Tech Dry drysuit which costs about $3,100. Cost can vary dpeending on features you want on the drysuit and drysuit material. For me, pockets are essentail, as are straps above the boots to keep air out. I also prefer integrated boots.
Neoprene drysuits are often more affordable (but more buoyant and require more weight) with trilaminate and crushed neoprene drysuits fetching higher prices.
Make sure to save money for any extras you may want your dive shop to add. I’m mainly thinking of dry gloves if you don’t want to use wet gloves. Dry glove systems usually cost about $150 – $250 and then getting them fitted might cost another $150, unless you do it yourself. I used wet gloves for a few years in waters that varied from 45 degrees F to 65 degrees F. I also used to use wet gloves in Clear Lake (the water temp was 39 F on average) but it is a much more pleasant dive in dry gloves! I use the Oval Antares system (nice for smaller wrists) but I know many people like the Kubi dry glove system. There are tons of others out there—I just haven’t tried them—DUI’s zip seal system, Waterproof’s Ultima Twist, Virgo’s oval system, and on and on.
>> Related Reading: Gear Review: BARE XCS2 Drysuit
Drysuit undergarments: You can DIY these (fleece is what you want) or you can buy them. If you buy them from a dive shop or store they’ll cost you between $250 and $600. You’ll want undergarments appropriate to your drysuit thickness and to the water temperature. Ask your dive shop for help. I have thermals of varying thickness depending on the water I’m diving. Don’t dry your fleece. You’ll ruin the thermal properties.
For slightly warmer waters I use a BARE base layer and a BARE mid layer. For colder waters I use a BARE Polar Extreme. I’ve heard great things about Weezle and Fourth Element too though I’ve never tried their undergarments. Weezle is supposed to have seriously toasty thermals, though they can get bulky, so make sure you know your drysuit can fit them.
Hood: You can expect to pay between $30 and $120 for a hood. Price will vary depending on thickness and features. Some hoods have a skirt you can tuck into your wetsuit, others have a zip that attaches directly (you’ll need to brand match with your wetsuit in that case). I own a BARE ultrawarmth 7mm hood and it’s wonderful. I also own a Waterproof H1 5/10mm Polar hood and it’s even warmer. It truly depends on what you’re diving.
Gloves: Neoprene gloves will set you back anywhere from $15 to $90. Again, it depends on the brand and how thick the gloves are. Like wetsuits, 1mm and 3mm gloves will be much more affordable compared with thicker gloves. Semi-dry gloves might also cost a little more.
Rash guards: A good set of rash guards (top and pants) will set you back between $80 and $160. You can spend more or less depending on the brand. I love the Spacefish Army stuff (though the patterns don’t always look good in photos when matched, IMO). Usually I prefer a colored shirt and black pants, or vice versa. For rash guard pants, I honestly just purchase from Amazon. I have a couple of these pants. Other brands to look into include Waterlust, Scubapro (they size small), and SlipIns (they’re thin but look very shiny and pretty).
3. Core Scuba Gear
BCD/wing with harness and backplate: A BCD or wing with harness and backplate will set you back anywhere from $280 through $1,300. It all depends on what you’re looking for. You don’t need to spend top dollar to get a really good system though. I have a couple of different options. Though I’ve switched to backplate and wing diving because I love how modular it is, many recreational divers opt for a jacket-style BCD. There’s no wrong or right choice, though I suggest going the backplate and wing route if you intend to get into technical diving at some point. My favorite brand for backplate, harness and wing is Halcyon. They also have the most colors and ability to customize wing of any dive gear manufacturer I’ve ever seen. I especially love my carbon fiber backplate for tropical diving, and the fact that I can use the same system for diving a single tank and double tanks. All I have to do it switch the wing and the tank adapter.
Regulator with Alternate Air Source (Octopus): A regulator is one of the most critical pieces of scuba gear you’ll invest in. It allows you to breathe comfortably and safely underwater—it is your life support. Prices can range from $400 to $1,500. A basic regulator setup, which includes the first stage (attaches to your tank), a primary second stage (the part you breathe from), and an alternate air source (octopus), can cost around $400 to $600. Mid-range options with better performance and features like environmental sealing (great for cold water diving) might be $700 to $1,000. High-end regulators designed for technical diving or extreme conditions can exceed $1,500.
My first regulator set purchased in 2016 was an Aqualung Core. I had an airsource (my octopus was on my Aqualung Lotus BCD) so I only had to purchase the first and second stage, not the octopus. It also all came in a bundle so I got a big discount. i300 dive watch, BCD and regulator. Today, I won’t use an airsource. Frankly I want a regulator that has a long hose and that breathes really well at depth. I’ve had too many LP hose freeflows and small issues with the airsource to truly love it, though I know there are people who do.
Some of my favorite brands include Apeks, Scubapro, Halcyon, and Aqua Lung. For cold water diving, it’s crucial to choose a regulator that is environmentally sealed to prevent freezing. Brands like Halcyon, Apeks, and Scubapro offer regulators specifically designed for cold water conditions.
Today I dive 2 sets of Apeks XTX 50s as I can use them with a single tank setup, with doubles and with sidemount. They’re also great for cold water diving. If I ever choose to upgrade, these will be my stage bottle regs.
When purchasing a regulator, consider factors like ease of breathing, environmental sealing (especially if you plan to dive in cold waters), number of ports, and ease of servicing. An environmentally sealed regulator prevents water from entering the first stage, reducing the risk of free-flow due to freezing in cold temperatures. Do your research!
Always buy from an authorized dealer to ensure warranty and service support. Do not buy these second hand online, seriously. This is your life support.
SPG/Compass: An SPG (Submersible Pressure Gauge) is essential for monitoring your air supply, and a compass is invaluable for underwater navigation. These can be purchased separately or as part of a console. Prices range from $100 to $300. A basic SPG can cost around $100, while a console that includes both an SPG and a compass may run about $150 to $250.
Brands like Suunto, Oceanic, and Scubapro offer reliable gauges and compasses. If you plan to streamline your setup, consider a wrist-mounted compass and an SPG attached directly to your regulator via a high-pressure hose.
Ensure the SPG is easy to read and the compass is fluid-filled for smooth operation underwater.
Weights and Weight Belt: Costs can range from $50 to $200, depending on how much lead you need. A basic weight belt with standard lead weights might cost around $50. Integrated weight systems in BCDs may require special weights, increasing the cost.
Shot belts (belts filled with lead shot) are more comfortable but pricier. Soft weights tend to be more expensive than hard lead weights. The amount of weight you need depends on your body composition, exposure protection, and equipment. Investing in a comfortable weight system is worthwhile, as poorly distributed weight can affect your trim underwater.
Dive Computer: A dive computer tracks your depth, bottom time, and decompression status, enhancing your safety. Prices range from $200 to over $1,500. Entry-level models with basic features start around $200 to $300, suitable for beginners and recreational divers.
Mid-range computers with advanced features like air integration, nitrox compatibility, and digital compasses cost between $500 and $1,000. High-end models designed for technical diving, with features like multi-gas support, trimix, and rebreather compatibility, can exceed $1,500.
Popular brands include Shearwater, Suunto, Garmin, Oceanic, and Scubapro. The Shearwater Peregrine is an excellent mid-range option for recreational divers, while the Shearwater Teric is a top choice for those seeking advanced features in a watch-sized device. I love my Shearwater Perdix as I can use it for tech and rec alike. I especially love the screen size and the long battery life. Many prefer Garmin as they can use it for other activities. This is also true of Suunto’s latest “Ocean” computer (I have one of those too) and of the Apple watch. I’m not a huge fan of the Apple watch as it doesn’t have a long battery life. That said, others like it because they’re familiar with Apple’s watches and are apparently used to charging them very frequently.
When choosing a dive computer, consider display readability, user interface, battery type (user-replaceable or rechargeable), and whether you prefer a wrist-mounted or console-mounted unit.
4. Accessories
Dive Knife: A dive knife is an important safety tool, useful for freeing yourself from entanglements like fishing lines or kelp, or for buttering bread between a dive (no joke, that’s usually how I use mine). Prices range from $20 to $200. A basic stainless steel knife can cost around $20 to $50. Higher-quality knives made from titanium (which resists corrosion better) can cost $100 to $200.
Some divers prefer line cutters or shears, which are also effective and sometimes more convenient to carry. When choosing a dive knife, consider blade material, size, mounting options (leg, BCD, or hose-mounted), and local regulations regarding knife size.
Dive Lights: Dive lights are essential for night dives, darker/cold water dives, cavern or cave dives, or for exploring crevices during day dives. Prices vary from $50 to $500. A basic handheld dive light suitable for recreational use can cost around $50 to $100. Mid-range lights with higher lumens, better battery life, and rechargeable batteries might cost between $150 and $300.
Primary dive lights are brighter with longer battery life, while backup lights are smaller for emergency use. Brands like Orca Torch, BigBlue, Dive Rite, Underwater Kinetics, and Light & Motion offer reliable options. Consider beam angle, brightness (lumens), battery type, and depth rating when selecting a dive light.
If you intend to go into tech diving, you might be getting into the realm of canister lights, and those can get much pricier.
I love my BigBlue dive lights and my Dive Rite dive lights, especially!
Tank Light: A tank light (also known as a tank marker or beacon) is a small light attached to your tank or BCD, making you visible to your buddy during night dives or in low-visibility conditions. Prices range from $10 to $30. These lights can be chemical glow sticks or battery-powered LEDs. LED versions are reusable and environmentally friendly.
I recommend investing in a small, battery-powered tank light that can be switched on and off as needed. They come in various colors, which can help identify divers within a group.
Whistle: A whistle is a simple yet crucial piece of safety equipment for surface signaling. It can help you attract attention if you’re separated from the boat or shore. Prices range from $5 to $20. Look for a marine-grade whistle designed to work when wet and produce a loud sound even in windy conditions.
Attach the whistle to your BCD or inflator hose for easy access. Some divers also carry other signaling devices like mirrors or air horns, but a whistle is lightweight and affordable.
5. Nice to Have (not included in total price)
Nautilus Lifeline: This will cost you $250. If it were up to me, I’d make wearing one of these a requirement for anyone doing any form of ocean diving. It could save your life if you get too far from your boat or get swept out on a current. You’ll be able to use it to alert any boats to the fact that you’re in an emergency situation. They’ve just launched a new version of the Lifeline, so consider buying it!
Reel: A reel will cost you between $50 and $300, depending on the size and quality. Reels are essential for certain types of diving, such as wreck, cave, or drift diving. They can be used for deploying SMBs from depth, navigating in low visibility, or conducting search patterns.
Common types include finger spools and larger reels with handles. Finger spools are compact and typically cost between $30 and $80. Larger reels suitable for cave or wreck penetration can cost from $100 to $300. Brands like Dive Rite, Halcyon, and Light Monkey offer reliable reels. Choose a reel with a smooth line payout and retrieval mechanism, and ensure it’s appropriate for the type of diving you plan to do.
Backup mask: Carrying a backup mask can be a lifesaver if your primary mask fails or gets lost underwater. A backup mask can cost between $40 and $200, similar to primary masks. Technical divers often carry a backup mask in a pocket. Choose a low-profile mask that fits comfortably and can be easily stowed.
While not essential for recreational dives, having a backup mask is good practice for more advanced diving, especially in overhead environments where surfacing immediately may not be an option. I don’t go on any dive without mine.
EZ cutter: An EZ Cutter is a compact line-cutting tool, useful for quickly cutting fishing lines, nets, or ropes. Prices range from $15 to $40. They are safer and easier to handle compared to knives, especially in emergencies.
Brands like Trilobite make popular versions of these cutters. They usually come with replaceable blades and can be easily mounted on your harness or stored in a pocket.
Shears: Trauma shears are another cutting tool option. They can cut through thicker materials that a knife or line cutter might struggle with, such as thick ropes or webbing. Prices range from $10 to $30.
Shears are often made of stainless steel and come with a sheath for mounting on your gear. They’re affordable and effective, making them a great addition to your safety equipment.
Slate or Waterproof Notebook: A slate or waterproof notebook allows you to communicate underwater, take notes, or record dive data. Prices range from $10 to $50.
Simple wrist slates cost around $10 to $20, while multi-page notebooks or magnetic slates might cost $30 to $50. They’re useful for communicating complex information or for instructors and scientists who need to record data underwater.
Nitrox Analyzer: If you’re certified to dive with enriched air nitrox, owning a nitrox analyzer allows you to verify the oxygen content of your tanks before diving. Prices range from $250 to $500.
While many dive shops provide an analyzer, having your own ensures you’re always able to confirm your gas mix. Brands like Analox and OxyCheq offer reliable analyzers. It’s an important safety tool for nitrox divers.
Save-a-Dive Kit: A Save-a-Dive Kit is a collection of essential spare parts and tools that can help you fix minor equipment issues on the spot, preventing a canceled dive due to simple problems. Typical items include spare O-rings, mask and fin straps, mouthpieces, zip ties, silicone grease, and basic tools like a multi-tool or small screwdriver.
Assembling a Save-a-Dive Kit can cost anywhere from $30 to $100, depending on the contents and quality of the items you include. Pre-made kits are available from dive shops and online retailers, usually priced around $50 to $80.
Defog Solution: You can make your own (diluted Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo) or you can buy defog made for divers. It should cost you between $6 – $15, depending on what you purchase.
>> Related Reading: Johnsons baby shampoo for scuba mask clearing
Reef Safe Sunscreen: This will cost you $10 – 30, depending on the brand and size. Trust me, you’ll want this if you’re on a dive boat as more and more operators put their foot down on sunscreens that have chemicals in them that could damage the reef. A popular-with-divers reef safe sunscreen is Stream2Sea. A word of caution though, their white sunscreen really does give you an ashen complexion, which looks terrible in photos. Buy the tinted version.
6. Things You Can Keep Renting
Tanks: If you do a lot of diving, you may want to buy your own but keep in mind that tanks come with regular costs: an annual VIP fee (also a separate fee if you want it EANx cleaned), and a hydro fee every 5 years. This does not include additional costs if your tanks do require extra cleaning. A few years ago I bought 5 tanks from a friend. It cost me $450. When it came time to service them (some needed cleaning), it cost me another $450. My point is, the costs can add up. For many people it’s just easier to rent tanks.
That said, if you want to buy your own tanks, steel tanks cost more (you can have more air in them and wear less weight) and aluminum tanks cost less but you’ll have to wear more weight and you can’t get really big fills on them.
Weights: I also rented weights for a while as they were surprisingly expensive, especially as I had to purchase a lot of weight for cold water diving. My slow purchases included, a 12lb Seasoft weight belt and multiple loose soft weights, as well as seasoft ankle weights. Though I don’t use the ankle weighs or the weight belt today (I use a stainless steel backplate and keel weight as well as pocket weights), I made good use of the rest for many years. If I ever dive a jacket BCD again, I’ll be sure to pick up my original set.
7. Annual Costs to Consider
Like your car, you should service your dive gear annually. This includes your BCD and your regulator as well as any other equipment you purchase that suggests a service. If you dive a drysuit, that may occasionally need servicing or repairs too. Seams get leaky, holes can appear, and seals do break or crack. Don’t skimp on your safety.
8. Total Cost of Scuba Gear Depending on the Type of Diver
(turn this into a table with each of the above items above listed in a row)
A wetsuit diver
- Basic kit cost: Approximately $1,520. This includes essential gear at entry-level prices
- Intermediate kit cost: Around $2,980. This level features mid-range equipment offering better performance
- High-end kit cost: Approximately $7,350. This includes top-of-the-line gear with the best performance
A drysuit diver
- Basic kit cost: Approximately $2,520. Essential gear for colder waters
- Intermediate kit cost: Around $4,830. Mid-range gear with additional features
- High-end kit cost: Approximately $9,650. Top-tier equipment for serious divers
An aspiring tech diver
If you’re delving into tech diving, or expect to in the future, do yourself a favor and buy the right gear from the start. This includes a backplate and wing rather than a wraparound BCD, and regulators and a dive watch that will be suited to the type of diving you intend to do.
- Basic kit cost: Approximately $6,590. Entry-level technical gear
- Intermediate kit cost: Around $9,575. Mid-range technical equipment
- High-end kit cost: Approximately $14,470. Top-of-the-line gear for advanced technical diving
Have I missed anything? Leave a comment if you think there’s more to add.
